Haemodynamic Kinetics and Intermittent Finger Flexor Performance in Rock Climbers

Title Page Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers Running head: Haemodynamic kinetics in elite rock climbers

Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers.

PURPOSE To examine differences in oxygenation kinetics in the nondominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. METHODS Participants were 28 sport climbers with a range of on-site abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near-infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t1/2 recovery) of the tissue-sat...

Diagnosis of finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers: A systematic review.

BACKGROUND Closed injury to the finger flexor pulley system is found frequently in rock climbers. There are no evidence-based published guidelines on the diagnosis and treatment of these injuries. OBJECTIVES THE PRESENT SYSTEMATIC REVIEW WAS UNDERTAKEN TO ANSWER THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS: what are the most commonly recommended diagnostic criteria for finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers...

Impact of taping after finger flexor tendon pulley ruptures in rock climbers.

Flexor tendon pulley ruptures are the most common injury in rock climbers. Therapeutic standards usually include a prolonged use of taping applied as a replacement for the lost pulley in a circular fashion at the base of the proximal phalanx. Our biomechanical considerations, however, suggest a new taping method, the H-tape. The purpose of the study is to evaluate whether this new taping method...

Lumbrical tears in rock climbers.

Performance rock climbing places high demands on the hand and may lead to specific injuries. In a "one-finger-pocket" hold, the interphalangeal joints remain in 20-40 degrees flexion. To increase the maximum force of the holding finger by the quadriga effect, the interphalangeal joints of the adjacent fingers become almost maximally flexed. Holding a "one-finger-pocket" with the ring or small f...